Rustica is a charming restaurant from the get-go, sporting a unique storefront on the Kalamazoo Mall; obvious, yet understated. The bicycle logo relates that this European cuisine will be more attuned to the romantic parts of the continent, that of Italy and Northern France, rather than the robustness of fine Greek food (such as that which is served at Ouzos or The Blue Dolphin). In true European fashion Rustica adorns their front window with a complete menu, including the wine list, the diversity of which is intriguing and inviting.
Like other European-flavor Kalamazoo dining, Rustica is a small space with tightly packed tables. I should have made a reservation; there was only one table available when I arrived. The diners were mostly elderly townies who frequented restaurant openings as though they were art exhibitions. Since Rustica had only been open for a month, I was surprised to hear my host/waiter ask me if I had dined there before. I was seated next to the dessert station, separate from the kitchen, which turned out to be a delightful locale. The dessert chefs were clearly aware of their proximity with the customers: they wore their chef duds proudly and only dabbled with pleasant smelling cookeries.
Rustica offered an interesting array of appetizers. The cauliflower gratin and Rustica Salad were certainly the least impressive parts of the meal, but this was probably because of a poor wine choice on my part. The wine itself was delicious, Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile, but it overpowered the meatless starters. Also interesting was the use of the wine aerator, something which I’ve used before but never seen used in the official capacity at a restaurant. I was poured my taste of wine after it was aerated.
Bread from Roland’s Bakery was served between firsts and the main course, a plate of Potato Gnocchi served with buttered squash in a light butter sauce. I’ve never eaten sautéed potato pasta, only boiled, and the difference was startling. The main was delicious and complemented well even with the medium red wine.
The chef of Rustica is Adam Watts, who has worked at the absolutely phenomenal Tapawingo, a four-star restaurant in Ellsworth, Michigan. Although certain dietary restrictions disallow me from reviewing the restaurant in full, my partner tells me that their experience was of equal quality. The wine list is as extensive as one would expect for a restaurant which boasts “European cuisine,” and the beer list pays homage to some of the better beers of the world (and Michigan) at the sacrifice of the more conglomerated breweries of Wisconsin. (That is not to say that Wisconsin does not also have some excellent microbreweries.) The beer list also boasts some charming quotations which remind one not to take beer quite as seriously as wine, although some would chastise me for saying so.
The mains of Rustica are mainly seafood-oriented, but there is plenty on the menu which accommodates other tastes. Generous portions and prices to boot make Rustica the premier European dining in downtown, and perhaps greater area, Kalamazoo.
Rustica is located at 236 Kalamazoo Mall in downtown Kalamazoo, Michigan.
