By Jillian McLaughlin

Food Dance can be thought of as a kind of satellite campus of Kalamazoo College. Every time I go I see a few K students enjoying some of the local-organic (ethical?) cuisine. This past visit I encountered no fewer than 11 students from K. Despite Food Dance’s popularity, the actual deliciousness of its food remains deeply ambiguous.

Food Dance currently resides in downtown Kalamazoo, right before Water Street and the train tracks. Upon entering, all senses are delighted–the swathe of coordinated colors, the laughter of people who know better, the scent of fresh herbs hanging in the air.

The style is as smooth as the red wine it serves. The waiters and waitresses are full-fledged foodies, giving the impression that they would work for free just for the privilege of serving the exquisite dishes Food Dance has to offer.

Unfortunately, Food Dance succeeds more in style than substance. The ostentatious presentation of my meals had diverted my attention from what food should be about–taste. The macaroni and cheese is decidedly uncomforting, the salmon overwhelms the senses. The crab is overdilled. Every dish sampled looks beautiful but goes down wrong. Like when you figure out that beautiful blonde is a really, really bad kisser.

I tried. And I tried again. I thought the brunette with local bread crumbs would be better. And it wasn’t.

But why the madness about Food Dance? Admittedly the breakfasts are much better. But the dinner crowd consistently turns out. The answer–the ambience.

Food Dance flatters its patrons. The menu contains the origins of your meat so you can chew on a burger and feel good knowing that it had a fulfilling life before it graced your plate. The point is that you know. You are in the know. You are practically a know-it-all but not here–because everybody knows. That way you don’t have to feel awkward about your super-aware self.

The shift in food to total awareness is ubiquitous in the restaurant business. Food Dance as an establishment foresaw the recent trend to view food in its cultural, ethical, and ecological context. The shift is mostly a good thing. Our health, the planet, and the animals that will be slaughtered for our taste buds all appreciate the shift. The importance is to make sure that awareness does not overshadow judgment. Food is for the eating. Food may be about morality and the environment and aesthetics but if it does not tantalize the taste buds it should remain on the plate.